< ><STRONG>没事干...就翻译了下，基本直译，有几句意译...有些不是太流畅..见谅..</STRONG></P>< ><FONT face=宋体 size=3>骑着扭曲的车圈就像带着刹车骑车一样，而且更加的危险。你不仅会骑的很慢（即使你的车圈没有和刹车发生摩擦，车圈脱离圆轨的摆动也会造成更多的阻碍），而且由于车圈是粗糙的，你将减少对其控制，而由于条幅受到不均等的拉力，你最终将以车圈扭折或条幅断裂为结局。如果你怀疑你的轮组在摇摆，不要犹豫。你越早发现一处小的扭曲，你将越容易修复它。一个TRUING STAND（大概就是编圈的那个架轮组的座子）是你做这项工作的最重要的工具。但是你可以用你车上的刹车夹器来代替。按照一下简单的4步来修正你的轮组。</FONT></P>< ><FONT size=3><FONT face=宋体>1，平衡各轮辐的张力</FONT></FONT></P><P><FONT face=宋体 size=3>取下损坏的轮组，扒了胎，放在修理架子上，或者把车倒置架车架上。然后，在你开始整修之前，用摇动每根条幅的方法来检查条幅的张力。用一个条幅扳手来绷紧每根和别的相比松动的钢丝－－只要差不多和它相邻的两个条幅一样，不要崩太紧。如果一根钢丝感觉比别的紧，用手指弹它。如果声音比它旁边的钢丝都尖锐，放松这个钢丝直到声音差不多一致。警告：在后轮组上，因为安装飞轮的地方占用了花鼓的长度，所以右侧的钢丝比左侧的要紧。不要破坏这个紧张程度的比例，只要根据同侧的其余钢丝来进行调节。</FONT></P> <P><FONT size=3><FONT face=宋体>2，消除变形</FONT></FONT></P> <P><FONT face=宋体 size=3>首先每一个侧面的修正轮组（从左到右），使用TRUING STAND上的准星（就是编轮组时那个测圈偏的东西），（如果你把轮组架车架上，也可以用夹器），在车圈上确定一个受损的点（为了简单化，即使有很多点，一次只搞一个点）。为了修好受损的地方，你需要向和偏移方向相反的方向拉动车圈。当你绷紧了一，二根位于损坏处附近的，并且在车圈另一面的钢丝，你完成了这项工作。绷紧钢丝时，每次绷紧1/4圈。总之如果车圈向左偏，绷紧右面的钢丝。在受损钢丝的同一侧，找到和你刚才绷紧的那个钢丝平行的钢丝，并且相等的放松这些钢丝，（钢丝会或上或下直到正圆，所以你不能操之过急。）旋转轮组，检查这一点上的受损处。然后继续绷紧，放松平行的钢丝，直到变形消除。别的地方也依此类推。</FONT></P> <P><FONT size=3><FONT face=宋体>3.停止轮组跳跃（上下抖动）</FONT></FONT></P> <P><FONT face=宋体 size=3>接下来，通过旋转轮组，观察轮组的最高，低点的位置来修正轮组使其符合半径。如果轮组有一个地方高出来，它在圆上对称的必然有一个最低点。为了消除轮组的跳动，在最低处放松钢丝四分之一圈，在最高出宁紧四分之一圈。和刚才一样，只能四分之一，四分之一圈的进行，然后旋转轮组来检查你的校正，每次处理一处跳动。</FONT></P> <P><FONT face=宋体 size=3>4.</FONT></P> <P><FONT face=宋体 size=3>一旦你消除了轮组上下抖动，通过校正你的车圈将很小程度的发生侧向抖动。在这点上你必须交替的从侧面和纵向进行调整。要有耐心。你的轮组越坏，你必须做更多的校正，但是每一次你调整，你的轮组将变的更接近正圆－－而且更接近流畅的骑行。</FONT></P><br> < >Riding with a warped wheel is like riding with your brakes on--but more dangerous. Not only are you slower (even if your rim isn't rubbing against the brakes, its out-of-round profile causes more drag and friction), but the ride is rougher, you have less control, and you could end up on the ground if the wheel folds or a spoke breaks thanks to the pressure of uneven spoke tension. If you suspect your wheel is wobbling, don't hesitate. The earlier you catch a small bend, the easier it will be to fix. A truing stand is the most accurate tool for the job, but you can get by using the brake pads on your caliper-brake bike. Follow these four simple steps to straighten your wheel and stop getting dragged down.<BR><B>1. Even Out Tension</B><BR>lace the offending wheel, tire off, in a truing stand (or remount it in your bike's drops). Then, before you begin truing, check spoke tension by wiggling each spoke. Use a spoke wrench to tighten spokes that feel loose relative to the others--just so they're about as snug as the two spokes closest to them; don't crank down. If a spoke feels tighter than the others, pluck it. If it sounds shriller than its neighbors, loosen it until the tones match. Caution: On rear wheels, because the hub is offset by the gear cluster, spokes on the right side of the wheel are tighter than those on the left side. Don't wreck this ratio; just adjust a spoke in relation to the others on its side.<BR><B>2. Remove Rubs</B><BR>True the wheel laterally (side to side) first. Using the gauge on the stand (or the brake pads if you're truing on the bike), locate one spot on the rim that rubs. (For simplicity, work on only one spot at a time, even if there are multiple rubs.) To fix the rub, you need to pull the rim toward the opposite side. You accomplish this by tightening the one or two spokes that sit near the rub on the opposite side of the rim. Tighten them just a quarter-turn at a time. So, if the rim is warped to the left, tighten the right-side spokes. On the same side as the rub, find the spoke parallel to the one you tightened, and loosen it an equal amount. (This maintains equal tension radially, or up and down, so you don't create a hop.) Spin the wheel and check for a rub in that same spot. Keep tightening and loosening sets of parallel spokes until that rub is eliminated, then move on to others if needed.<BR><B>3. Stop Hops</B><BR>Next, true the wheel radially by spinning it and looking for high and low spots against the gauge. (This is almost impossible to do without a truing stand, but you might try it by attaching a zip-tie around the brake arms, just a couple millimeters above the rim; this can give you a line to sight off of.) If the rim has a high spot, it will have a corresponding low spot directly across the diameter of the wheel. To remove the hop, loosen the spokes a quarter-turn at the low spot; and snug them a quarter-turn on the high spot. As before, work only in quarter-turns, then spin the wheel to check your adjustment, and do one hop at a time.<BR><B>4. Dial It In</B><BR>Once you've eliminated hops, your rim will be slightly out of true laterally from the adjustment. At this point you must alternate lateral and radial truing. Be patient. The worse off your wheel was, the more adjustments you'll have to make, but each time you alternate, your wheel becomes closer to round--and closer to a smooth ride. </P>< >....</P>中文啊... [em05] |
>Riding with a warped wheel is like riding with your brakes on--but more dangerous. Not only are you slower (even if your rim isn't rubbing against the brakes, its out-of-round profile causes more drag and friction), but the ride is rougher, you have less control, and you could end up on the ground if the wheel folds or a spoke breaks thanks to the pressure of uneven spoke tension. If you suspect your wheel is wobbling, don't hesitate. The earlier you catch a small bend, the easier it will be to fix. A truing stand is the most accurate tool for the job, but you can get by using the brake pads on your caliper-brake bike. Follow these four simple steps to straighten your wheel and stop getting dragged down.<BR><B>1. Even Out Tension</B><BR>lace the offending wheel, tire off, in a truing stand (or remount it in your bike's drops). Then, before you begin truing, check spoke tension by wiggling each spoke. Use a spoke wrench to tighten spokes that feel loose relative to the others--just so they're about as snug as the two spokes closest to them; don't crank down. If a spoke feels tighter than the others, pluck it. If it sounds shriller than its neighbors, loosen it until the tones match. Caution: On rear wheels, because the hub is offset by the gear cluster, spokes on the right side of the wheel are tighter than those on the left side. Don't wreck this ratio; just adjust a spoke in relation to the others on its side.<BR><B>2. Remove Rubs</B><BR>True the wheel laterally (side to side) first. Using the gauge on the stand (or the brake pads if you're truing on the bike), locate one spot on the rim that rubs. (For simplicity, work on only one spot at a time, even if there are multiple rubs.) To fix the rub, you need to pull the rim toward the opposite side. You accomplish this by tightening the one or two spokes that sit near the rub on the opposite side of the rim. Tighten them just a quarter-turn at a time. So, if the rim is warped to the left, tighten the right-side spokes. On the same side as the rub, find the spoke parallel to the one you tightened, and loosen it an equal amount. (This maintains equal tension radially, or up and down, so you don't create a hop.) Spin the wheel and check for a rub in that same spot. Keep tightening and loosening sets of parallel spokes until that rub is eliminated, then move on to others if needed.<BR><B>3. Stop Hops</B><BR>Next, true the wheel radially by spinning it and looking for high and low spots against the gauge. (This is almost impossible to do without a truing stand, but you might try it by attaching a zip-tie around the brake arms, just a couple millimeters above the rim; this can give you a line to sight off of.) If the rim has a high spot, it will have a corresponding low spot directly across the diameter of the wheel. To remove the hop, loosen the spokes a quarter-turn at the low spot; and snug them a quarter-turn on the high spot. As before, work only in quarter-turns, then spin the wheel to check your adjustment, and do one hop at a time.<BR><B>4. Dial It In</B><BR>Once you've eliminated hops, your rim will be slightly out of true laterally from the adjustment. At this point you must alternate lateral and radial truing. Be patient. The worse off your wheel was, the more adjustments you'll have to make, but each time you alternate, your wheel becomes closer to round--and closer to a smooth ride. </P>>....</P>GMT+8, 2024-6-16 07:18 , Processed in 0.031123 second(s), 40 queries .
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